The 40 year swell…
Posted to Articles, Features by jennykalmbach on Dec.14, 2009
Hello hello.
Well, last week proved to me once again that I cannot rely on the surf forecast. At least not the forecast for Kona on the Big Island… The North Shore was pumping – Pipeline was closing out on the outer reefs and Waimea was at it’s finest. The Eddie was held on Tuesday, the 8th with Greg Long beating out Kelly for the title in the last 10 minutes of his heat. The following day was still too big for the final event of the Triple crown, the Billabong Pipeline Masters so they had to wait for it to subside and held the first heats that Wednesday. That was the North Shore…..
I woke up early Monday morning excited for the big swell…adrenaline pumping as I pictured the surf rolling through. Drove down to town to check it and guess what? It was flat. Not just sort of flat but really flat… perfect dive conditions…I could have cried. We ended up getting some swell Tuesday but nothing very big and far from the swell of the decade that they were predicting. Such is the surfing life when you live in Kona. But it’s not the end of the world – early in the season so I’m sure we will get our share of big waves soon… I hope. And at least I don’t have to worry about getting snowed in or dealing with wetsuits and super crowded breaks. Life is good
Here are some photos of the afternoon I did manage to make it out and surf.
Jenny
- Could this be a Guiness record of some sort?


















December 14th, 2009 on 4:32 pm
ahh jenny, that is a bummer it didn’t hit the big island well. My brother lucked out and was in maui the whole time and said it was pretty all time.
December 30th, 2009 on 9:28 pm
is that what kukio looks like when it actually breaks. looks like a fun left